There are six free Morse code tools on this site, and which one you need depends on what you are starting from. Typed text or typed code goes to the translator, a recording goes to the audio decoder, and a photo or a blinking light goes to the image decoder.
The comparison table below is the short answer. The six sections after it say what each tool is good at and, more usefully, where it struggles.
They divide by what you are holding rather than by feature. Two are reference charts, three decode something you already have, and one lets you send code yourself on a practice key.
If you already know you want to type a message or paste dots and dashes, start at the Morse code translator and skip the rest of this page.
| Tool | You give it | You get back | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Morse code translator | Typed text or typed Morse code | The other one, as you type | Converting a message you can type, in either direction. |
| Morse code alphabet chart | A letter you want to look up | Its dots and dashes | Looking up one letter, or learning the alphabet. |
| Morse code numbers and punctuation chart | A digit or a punctuation mark | Its dots and dashes | Writing a phone number, a date or a price in Morse. |
| Morse code tapper | You, holding a key | Your letters, decoded live | Practising sending, and hearing your own timing. |
| Morse code audio translator | An audio file, or your microphone | The decoded text | A recording of beeps you need turned back into words. |
| Morse code image translator | A picture, a video, or your camera | The decoded text | Dots and dashes in a photo, or a blinking light. |
Every one of them is free, needs no signup, and runs entirely in your browser. None of them upload what you give them, which is why they all keep working once the page has loaded and the network has not.
Best for: Converting a message you can type, in either direction. Open the morse code translator.
This is the tool to reach for first. Paste a line of dots and dashes and you get the words back, or type a sentence and you get the code, with the conversion updating on every keystroke rather than behind a button.
It also plays the Morse aloud at 15 words per minute, and tells you how long the message takes to send. What it cannot do is work from a recording or a photo, which is what the next two tools are for.
Best for: Looking up one letter, or learning the alphabet. Open the morse code alphabet chart.
A chart rather than a converter. Every row links to itself, so you can send someone a link that opens on the letter J rather than telling them to scroll.
It also groups the letters by code length and lists the six mirror pairs, which is the part that makes the alphabet quicker to memorise than reading it A to Z.
Best for: Writing a phone number, a date or a price in Morse. Open the morse code numbers and punctuation chart.
Digits work differently enough from letters to be worth their own page: every one of them is exactly five symbols, sliding from dots to dashes as it counts up.
The same page carries the punctuation, which is where most people find out that a question mark is six symbols and that there is no code for a currency symbol here.
Best for: Practising sending, and hearing your own timing. Open the morse code tapper.
The only tool here that reads you rather than a file. Hold the key or the space bar, short for a dot and long for a dash, and the letters appear as you send them.
It measures your speed while you go and shows a question mark for a pattern that is not a letter, so a mistimed gap stays visible instead of being quietly dropped.
Best for: A recording of beeps you need turned back into words. Open the morse code audio translator.
It listens for one steady tone switched on and off, works out the sending speed from the signal itself, and decodes from there, so hand sent Morse with uneven timing still comes out.
The same page turns text the other way, into a WAV file you can download and send on. Nothing is uploaded either way: the audio is analysed inside the page.
Best for: Dots and dashes in a photo, or a blinking light. Open the morse code image translator.
Two jobs in one page. It reads a printed or handwritten line of dots and dashes by measuring the width of each mark, and it reads a light switching on and off by measuring the brightness of each video frame.
Point the camera at a torch and it decodes the whole message when you press stop. The light has to be the brightest thing in the frame, so a dim room helps more than a steady hand.
Work backwards from what you are holding. If you can type it, the translator handles it. If you can only play it, the audio translator does. If you can only see it, the image translator does.
If you are not converting anything at all and want to learn the code instead, start with how to learn Morse code, then practise sending on the tapper. Reading by eye and sending by hand are different skills, and the tapper is the one that builds the second.
Use the translator for anything you can type, the audio translator for a recording, and the image translator for a photo or a blinking light. The tapper is for sending rather than reading, and the two charts are for looking a single character up.
All six are free, with no signup and no limits. There is no account to make, no message length cap, and no paid tier holding a feature back. The conversion runs in your browser, so there is no per use cost to pass on.
None of them upload anything. Your text, your audio files, your photos and your camera frames are all read and processed inside the page itself. That is also why every tool here keeps working with the network disconnected or switched off.
There is nothing to install. Every tool runs in the browser, on a phone as well as a desktop, and the site can be added to a home screen if you want it to open like an app. That is the whole install step.
All of them, once the page has loaded. The conversion, the timing, the audio decoding and the image decoding are all browser code, so nothing on this site needs a connection after the first visit to a page.
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